Socialization

by Lindsay (bahamutt99)

What is socialization?

The dictionary defines socialization as "a continuing process whereby an individual acquires a personal identity and learns the norms, values, behavior, and social skills appropriate to his or her social position." When talking about dogs, this term refers to the practice of exposing and acclimating a dog to things it could encounter in its lifetime. In essence, it is like job training for their expected role as a sound companion.

Why is socialization important, and what dogs need it?

Socialization is very important in raising a well-rounded, adaptable dog. In today's society, we have created an encapsulated world for our dogs, where they are restricted by wall, door, fence, crate and tether. Many dogs are shut off from outside experiences, and frequently from new people and new situations that come into their own territory. The result is a dog that feels secure only within the physical boundaries of their home, and only around those people and situations with which it is intimately familiar. They know of nothing else, and when change occurs, it causes undue stress for the dog. Stressed dogs are more likely bite, and/or engage in other destructive behavior. Some dogs lose their homes and their lives due (at least in part) to inadequate or nonexistent socialization.

The opportunity to socialize should be offered to all dogs of all ages and breeds. In the APBT, it is crucial, since our breed should not be seen shying away from — or worse, showing aggression to — the general public. It is most beneficial to young dogs, and actually starts when they are born. (A puppy's earliest socialization comes from being touched by his breeder, his mother, and his littermates.) However, all dogs stand to benefit from it. A dog that has been undersocialized may be slowly re-trained to accept new things with careful socialization. Adult APBTs who have been properly exposed appreciate continued socialization if for no other reason than they like being out with their owner, meeting new people and handing out kisses.



The age issue

Authorities differ as to the exact ages at which socialization has the most impact, but a good ballpark figure is 6 weeks to 6 months. (Be sure to follow your veterinarian's recommended vaccination schedule during this time, and do not allow a puppy that hasn't been vaccinated to have contact with other dogs, or places which dogs frequent, such as the pet superstore or the park.)

What sort of things should a dog be exposed to?

The sky's the limit! Try to imagine what kinds of things your dog might encounter in normal situations. Here's an example list of some of the things a dog can run into on a daily basis.

People: Different races. Men. Women. Small children. Very tall or very short people. Guys with facial hair. Hats and hooded jackets. Folks with conditions such tremors. Smokers. Someone carrying a ladder. Someone dragging a trash can.

Footing: Concrete. Grass. Carpet. Gravel. Sand. Snow. Sewer grates and manhole covers. Footbridges. Stairways. Wooden decking. Slick linoleum. Rubber mats. Rain puddles.

Objects (particularly those that move or make noise): Cars. Full trash bags. Strollers. Bicycles. Umbrellas. Shopping carts. Ringing phones. Household appliances like vacuums and can openers. Barbecue grills.



An APBT checking out a footbridge over water.

Some of the things listed above, a dog may never encounter in his lifetime. Others, he may not be phased by. Some situations are going to call for things not usually covered in the normal span of socialization. People in rural areas may want to make accommodations for things like horses and gunshots. Someone with disabled relatives is going to want to offer a dog exposure to things like walkers, wheelchairs, and medical equipment. It is also a good idea to socialize a dog out in public both during the day and at night. Some dogs who become very comfortable with a place or situation during the day can become very unsure of the same thing if encountered at night.

Dealing with puppy fears

It is normal for some puppies to be apprehensive and wide-eyed when out in new situations. Ideally, they will be curious and outgoing, but shy or cautious responses to certain things are not unheard of. It is important to keep a tight reign on your own emotions in such situations, and not to express your frustration. It is equally important not to comfort a fearful dog, as this encourages their belief that whatever they're nervous about is truly a thing to be afraid of! Greet objects of fear with neutrality and confidence. Even showing excitement is preferable to avoidance.


Some things we regard as normal can be quite a shock to a dog. Here an APBT investigates a suddenly-opened umbrella.

If a pup starts to show fear of something, do not pick them up unless you absolutely must. (You don't want to have to pick him up as a 50-pound adult every time he sees something that makes him nervous.) If it is something moving which has sparked the fear, simply stand there calmly and wait for the thing to pass. If you have the opportunity, introduce the puppy to mobile things before the object starts moving around. Always praise your puppy for investigating strange objects or different people. If your puppy is hesitant about meeting new people, you might try carrying treats in your pocket for people to give to him, so he begins to associate new people with good things.

Double trouble

If you are attempting to raise two puppies at the same time, it is always a good idea to see that they get separate socialization time. Two dogs who are constantly in each others' presence may begin to rely heavily on one another for security in new situations. There may come a time when you want (or need) to only take one dog somewhere, and you find that your pup — who is perfectly confident otherwise — turns into an shivering wreck without the support of his (biological or surrogate) sibling. It is also important to note that dogs raised with other dogs should still have socialization outside their pack, so that they learn appropriate interaction with other personalities.

Bring the right gear

When you are out socializing a new or untrained dog away from your home, make sure you use proper equipment that's in good repair. A fearful dog can buck out of an ill-fitted collar and take off running faster than you can grab him. Similarly, with a dog who shows an aggressive response to something, the last thing you want to have to worry about is how secure your leash/collar is.

Collars with quick-release clasps are a bad idea for most circumstances; a buckle collar is preferable. If you choose to use a prong or choke collar, make sure it is of sufficient strength for your dog, and that the links are in good shape. For dogs who tend to slip their collars, a martingale-type collar may be an option to prevent breakaways. Body harnesses are comfortable for the dog, but can also be backed out of, sometimes more easily than with a collar. Make sure your leash is in good shape — not chewed or frayed — strong enough for the dog in question, and comfortable on your hands. (Rope horse leads are frequently used for very strong pullers.) Retractable ("flexi") leads are not recommended for an untrained or unfamiliar dog.

The APBT and socialization with other animals

Some who own this breed feel that it should never be exposed to another dog, as the risk of combat is too great. It is true that this breed harbors a great capacity for aggression towards his own kind. Some will only target other APBTs, while others consider anything on four legs fair game. Other dogs harbor no dog aggression and will even let other dogs share their food and toys. It is important to note that socialization does not necessarily prevent a young dog from becoming dog aggressive as he ages. Dog aggression is normal for this breed, although it varies from dog to dog. An APBT should never be left unsupervised with another animal. Additionally, anyone who wishes to own this breed should know what to do in the event of a dog fight breaking out, and should be prepared for the possibility of having to maintain a segregated household if his dogs do not get along.


A puppy greeting an adult dog.

That said, I am of the opinion that young dogs who have not "turned on" — i.e., shown aggression towards other dogs — should be offered controlled socialization with other dogs for as long as is possible. The key word here is controlled. Playmates should be chosen carefully, and great care should be taken not to introduce the youngster to an overly aggressive partner. It is preferable to introduce the two dogs on neutral ground, where neither feels the urge to defend his territory. Also, remove all "triggers" that might cause jealousy or possessive behavior between the two. (Toys, food bowls, etc.) If the two dogs are meeting on-lead, try not to pull back on the lead, as this has been known to spark an aggressive outburst. (If possible, you may wish to arrange for the dogs to meet off-lead in a fenced-in area, to avoid tangles.)

In the case of an APBT who has shown a clear dislike of other dogs, it is best not to force the issue as far as socialization is concerned. Except in very extreme cases, a dog-aggressive dog can usually be taught to ignore other dogs when it is required. (For example, in the show ring or the vet's office.) However, knowing the limitations of this breed is key. As is knowing your own dog's personal boundaries, and what he will and will not tolerate.

When it comes to other animals, many of the same rules apply as with meeting other dogs. Take introductions slowly, and carefully watch your dog for signs of excitement or stress. When meeting cats, it is best to choose a cat that is used to dogs, and will not run away or initiate hostilities. A fleeing cat may spark a prey response — i.e., chase and grab — and a hostile cat could elicit defensive aggression from the dog. A physical barrier, such as a baby gate or a cage, might be used when introducing a dog to a smaller animal.


A young dog watching over a litter of kittens.

A thought about dog parks

Many dog owners are turning to off-leash dog runs (or dog parks) as a means to give their dogs exercise and off-lead play with other dogs. This is not really an appropriate situation for this breed. An APBT that does well in controlled play with other dog friends may feel overwhelmed or defensive when introduced to a loose pack, and this can lead to aggression. These dogs are uniquely suited for combat, and while they may not be the one to start the fight, they will usually be the one to finish it. Fair or not, a Pit Bull that is involved in a dog fight will usually be regarded as at fault, no matter what role he played in the incident. With other options available — such as having play dates at private homes or socializing at your local pet superstore — the risks of an off-lead dog park are not justifiable when dealing with this breed.

Be a role model!

A well-socialized, well-trained APBT is a joy to be around, and a very worthwhile member of his community. They also spread awareness about the breed and what they are capable of becoming in the right hands. People will remember "that nice Pit Bull" they met, and hopefully act accordingly when BSL comes around. Every APBT owner has a duty to make their dog the best breed ambassador they can be!